More than you always wanted to know about thread

Thread 

General rule : Thread and fabric should be of like fibers – synthetic with synthetic, natural with natural

Ie. Cotton thread for cotton fabric  

Why?  Synthetic thread is stronger and has rougher edges than cotton and over time will cut the cotton fabric.  If a thread breaks in a seam you can mend it; if a fabric tears at the seam it is much more difficult. Thus, general rule is thread strength should be less than that of the fabric used.

Mercerized cotton thread is strong, smooth, resists shrinkage.  What is mercerized thread?  Mercerized cotton thread has been put through a series of processes causing the thread to swell, become round and straighten out. Any fuzz is singed off.  This increases the luster of the thread as well as improves water and dye absorption.  Since fine, long stapled fibers respond best to mercerization, it is usually those types of cotton (Sea Island, Egyptian, Pima) that are used.  Most threads currently manufactured are mercerized. 

Synthetic thread is strong and elastic – good for sewing on knit, stretch, bonded, synthetic, and permanent press fabrics.  

Cotton wrapped polyester threads sew more like cotton thread, but have the strength and elasticity of polyester.

Silk thread is good for basting and stitching fabrics containing animal fibers – i.e. wool      combines durability with elasticity – leaves no lint or fuzz. Preferred by many for appliqué; it glides through the fabric.  Silk thread  is not noted for strength.

What do the numbers mean?   60/2    50/3  

The first number tells you the thickness of the thread – the higher the number the finer the thread (This is calculated by weight  of skeins of the cotton yarn.   In 60 count thread 60 skeins, or 840 yards of thread, each  weigh one English pound.       

The second number tells you the number of plies or individual threads that have been twisted together.

Size 50/3  or 60/3 mercerized cotton thread good for all hand and machine sewing of light and medium weight natural fabrics   but is very hard to find  60 wt   and hard to find 50 or 60 3 ply (Superior threads are now offering 3 ply 50 wt cotton in a variety of colors but is hard to find.

Just to make things difficult there are both English and Metric numbering systems

English is  Ne and that is the one where 50/3 and 60/3 are used.

Metric is Nm and then we are looking for 85/3 and 100/3

Synthetic thread usually uses the metric system.

Generally, a 20 - 30 wt thread is used for a heavy thread used for decorative stitches. 28 wt. or 30 wt. thread is used for in the bobbin for decorative work. 40wt thread is a quilting thread and 50 wt is a piecing thread.  50wt and 60wt can be used in the bobbin and is also good for appliqué. This is only a rough guideline, however, rules are made to be broken!  Experiment with what works best for you. 

To help you with your selection, read the end of the spool.  Generally, you will find information about:

·        The manufacturer and brand of the thread

·        The color number

·        Its weight and the number of plies (strands) that are twisted together. This is usually referred to by a number that looks like a fraction.  For example, if you see the number 60/2 that means that the thread is a 60 weight 2 ply thread.  The higher the first number, the finer the thread.

·        The fiber content

·        Whether or not the thread is mercerized

·        and maybe even the country of origin.

When using your thread on a machine, be sure to put the top part of the spool up.  This isn't always as obvious as you might think.  To determine which part of the spool is the top, hold the spool horizontally by the top and bottom.  Unroll about a foot of the thread.  If the thread hangs freely, you unrolled it from the top.  If it twists back on itself, you unrolled it from the bottom.

Don't use old thread you find laying around just to use it up.  Give it the yank test.  If you can break it by yanking it off the spool, it will break in your machine.  Toss it out.  Do not save it for a craft project, throw it out for the birds (which can be fatal to them) or donate it to charity.  Put it in the garbage can and don't look back.   Happy Quilting - love, Gloria